Hong Kong is described as the place where East meets West. It really is a clash of cultures with Prada stores facing Asian medicine shops held up with bamboo scaffolding. I'm not sure the clash is such a good thing but the tourist board seems to think it's worth promoting. It was all very confrontational as soon as I arrived in Kowloon district (the area recommended for budget accommodation). Everyone was grabbing my wrist telling me to come with them for a cheap room. I already had it in my head that I would go to a place called Chunking Mansion that was recommended to me, but I didn't realise that the place was made up of multiple hostels spread over several floors. It was a scrum to say the least with Indians Malaysians and Chinese people all fighting for my money. Eventually I went with a guy who looked local and got a good deal for a room. I had been told to expect to pay $200 but got $120 instead (HK$12.6 to the pound). I didn't have much cash when I arrived, only $40 from converted money in NZ, so I went to find an ATM. An Indian man offered me a tailored suit. I said no, but could he guide me to a cash machine. Hash? You want Hash, follow me. I gave up. HSBC is pretty prolific in Hong Kong, so I didn't have to look long. On the way I bought myself some beef noodles to go, paid for my room and eat watching BBC world news before sleeping.
The next day I was energised and ready to go. *:30 and I was out the door wondering what this new place had to offer, and at 8:30, not a lot. Nothing opens in Hong Kong until 11. My plan was already made though, I was to take the star ferry across to Hong Kong island, take the Peak Tram up to the Peak Tower Sky Terrace and look out over the city from the highest vantage point it had to offer. Then I would head back home and browse the night market. I hedged my bets and turned right out of Chunking Mansion. The pier was left. I took a ten to twelve kilometer detour around Kowloon province before finally reaching the star ferry terminal. I did get to see the real Hong Kong though, taking the back alleys and wandering through some pretty impressive fish markets. I finally got the ferry and saw Hong Kong city from the water. it is very impressive, such a compact city is a rare sight. Still not tired of walking I ditched the idea of the MTR (underground train). My navigational abilities were better this time, but still not perfect I walked through some very weird places, jumping between alleys full of food stalls and beggars to shopping streets and malls full of Versace and Louis Vitton. The main thing that strikes me about Hong Kong is it's obsession with fashion. Everything is about clothes. You don't earn a uniform, you buy it. If you want to be like your athletic heroes you buy the clothes. Sports shops sold clothes and shoes, never balls, bats, racquets or bikes. It felt like you weren't meant to do the sport, just look like you do.
Eventually I found where I was on the map and I was the opposite side of the Botanical gardens from where I wanted to be: the tram station. I am so glad I got lost this time. The gardens were incredible. I couldn't believe how beautiful it was and completely free to the public. They had an amazing aviary with all kinds of cranes and parrots, including a Macaw. Then there was the primate area, boasting gibbons, ring-tailed lemurs, pygmy gibbons, emperor monkeys and an orangutan! I was awestruck. I came out the other side and (after a long search) caught the Peak tram. This consisted of a tram-cart attached to a cable pulling you up the mountain at a 45 degree angle by a counter weight system with a cart going down. At the top there were some fantastic views, both over the city and out to the South China Sea.
On my way back I caught the star ferry at night and watched the city light up at skyscrapers displayed their lights. It's the most photographed view by far. That night I sampled the night market, haggling for bargains and trying to suss out the actual price of items. I asked how much some Oakley sunglasses were. $90. I walk away. $70... $60... 50. They all stopped at 50. The glasses are worth 50. A silver necklace? $170... 100... 70... 50. That's where they all stopped. I didn't actually buy anything this first visit, you have to be economical with these things, sample the goods as it were. ;)
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